Generator FAQ – Find Everything Here

How do I determine the right generator size (kVA) for my application?
Sizing is based on total electrical load, not just nameplate capacity: (1) list every piece of equipment that could run at the same time and its continuous running load in kW; (2) identify motor-driven loads (pumps, compressors, AC units, elevators) — these draw a starting/inrush current several times their running current, so the generator must be sized for the highest simultaneous starting surge, not just the sum of running loads; (3) convert total kW to kVA using the load’s power factor (kVA = kW ÷ power factor — our units are commonly rated at 0.8 PF, shown on the nameplate); (4) add a safety margin (commonly 10–20%) for future load growth rather than running at the absolute maximum continuously; (5) apply the nameplate’s altitude/temperature derating if your site exceeds the unit’s rated conditions. This is general sizing practice — for a precise recommendation matched to your actual equipment list and starting sequence, contact our team at [email protected] or +961 7 220 000.

How is a generating set’s rating identified?
Every unit has a nameplate on the control panel showing model type, kVA, serial number, year of manufacture, rated power, power factor, frequency, voltage, current, mass, performance class, and the maximum site altitude/ambient temperature it’s rated for. This data is also what’s needed for spare parts orders and warranty claims.

Does altitude or ambient temperature affect a generator’s rated output?
Yes — every nameplate specifies a maximum site altitude and ambient temperature for its rated output (for example, 1000m / 50°C). Installing at a higher altitude or hotter climate than the nameplate rating requires derating the output.

How big a fuel tank does my generating set need?
Minimum tank capacity is set by the generating set’s kVA range — from 1,000 L for 9–150 kVA up to 18,000 L for 1850–2000 kVA, with fuel inlet/return pipe diameter scaling from ½” up to 1¼” alongside it.

What’s the largest size that comes with an integral (built-in) fuel tank?
Small and medium range sets are mounted on a steel base frame with an integral daily tank holding about 8 continuous hours of fuel. Large sets from 750 kVA and above are not supplied with an integral tank — a separate bulk tank and fuel system are required.

How should the room’s air inlet and outlet be sized?
Both the inlet and outlet openings need a free-flow area at least 25% larger than the frontal area of the radiator matrix, and the outlet should be the same rectangular shape as the radiator. Anything fitted in the opening (mesh grille, louvers, attenuating panels, ducting) adds resistance, so the opening may need to be larger still to compensate. (p.11)

Where should the air inlet be positioned relative to the generator?
High in the wall, positioned so ducting directs air across the end of the alternator, engine air intake filter, and engine before reaching the radiator — this is correct and also prevents heated air pooling near the ceiling. An inlet placed high in the wall but at right angles to the fan airflow is explicitly called out as wrong: it lets cooling air bypass the alternator and intake filter, raising operating temperatures unless load is reduced. (p.11, Fig.6 vs Fig.7)

Is it okay to run the generator without its air filter?
No — the manual states plainly that it’s prohibited to run the generating set without air filters. (p.9)

What’s the rule of thumb for exhaust pipe elbows and backpressure?
To minimize backpressure, the elbow’s curve radius should be about 1.5 times the radius of the pipe, and exhaust backpressure must never exceed the level specified by the engine manufacturer. Exhaust pipes should be strapped to the roof to reduce weight pressure on the set itself, and a rain cap or exhaust trap may be needed on vertical exhaust runs to keep rain out. (p.9)

What should I check about the installation site before placing the unit?
The site must be able to bear the weight of the generating set plus the concrete base it rests on. If the bearing strength of the site is in doubt, get advice from a civil engineer before installation. (p.8)

How is the foundation depth calculated?
F = W ÷ (D × B × L), where F is foundation depth (m), W is the dry set’s weight (kg), D is the concrete density (use 2403.8 kg/m³ if unknown), B is foundation width (m), and L is foundation length (m). Depth should generally come out to 150–250 mm, and the foundation’s outside dimensions should exceed the set’s footprint by at least 300 mm on all sides. (p.8)

Do I need vibration isolation under the generator?
It depends on the application — where transmitted vibration to the building is a concern, mount the set on a vibration-isolating foundation using reinforced concrete with high compressive strength. Pad isolators (layered flexible material) suit non-critical applications; spring isolators (rubber pad plus support spring) can damp up to 98% of vibration energy for more demanding installations. (pp.8–9)

What fuel line materials are recommended — and what should be avoided?
Black iron, seamless steel, or copper tubing is recommended. Galvanized steel and zinc-bearing alloys should NOT be used — for both the tank and the piping. (p.10)

How close should the fuel tank be to the generator, and does distance matter?
As close as possible — under 15 m is recommended. If the tank has to be more than 15 m away, use larger-diameter pipes, or install a separate small daily tank instead. (p.10)

What fuel level limits apply relative to the engine?
The highest fuel level should not be more than 1.5 m above injector level (for most engines — some engines allow more; check the specific installation manual). The lowest level should be at least 15 cm above the fuel lift pump, especially for standby applications. (p.10)

At what fuel temperature should I be concerned, and is a fuel cooler needed?
Inlet fuel temperature shouldn’t exceed 55°C during operation. A fuel cooler in the return line is recommended for 300 kVA and above; a fuel heater may be needed if ambient temperature is close to the fuel’s cloud point (roughly 5°C below it, though your fuel supplier should confirm the actual value). (pp.9–10)

What’s the minimum fuel specification (cetane, viscosity, etc.)?
Cetane number 50 minimum, viscosity 2.0–4.5 centistokes at 40°C, density 0.835–0.855 kg/liter, sulfur 0.2% of mass maximum, distillation 85% at 350°C. (p.32)

How should a generating set or canopy be lifted?
Using proper lifting equipment, lifted from the bottom up with equal weight distribution across all four lifting points — never by the canopy’s top hooks. (p.12)

What should be done if a unit will be stored (not running) for an extended period?
At minimum every six months: disconnect the battery cables (recharge before reinstalling), drain water and oil from the engine, close the fuel inlet, check drive belts for wear/corrosion at the pulley groove, examine valve caps and rocker shaft for corrosion under the rocker cover, rotate the crankshaft by hand to circulate oil deposits over the cylinder bores, and re-preserve any external surfaces that need it. Failure to protect against extreme temperature/humidity swings during storage can void the warranty. (p.12)

What should I check before starting the generating set for the first time?
Visually inspect for damage, leakage, looseness, or cracks; check the fuel level in the day tank; check the oil level on the dipstick; check the coolant in the radiator; connect the battery cables with correct polarity; confirm the circuit breaker is OFF; and confirm the emergency button (if fitted) isn’t pressed. (p.13)

What does “Generator Locked Out” mean on the controller display?
It means the generator cannot start because of a serious alarm (a shutdown or electrical trip) — check the Alarm page on the controller to see the specific reason before attempting to restart. (p.21)

What controller brand/models does Ghaddar use, and what do they monitor?
Deep Sea Electronics (DSE) controllers — DSE6010/6020 MKII on smaller sets, and DSE6110/6120, 7310/7320, 7410/7420 on others. They monitor engine speed, oil pressure, coolant temperature, battery voltage, run hours, fuel level, and (on ECU-connected engines) additional parameters like oil/coolant temperature, exhaust temperature, and turbo/fuel pressure — with full event logging of past alarms and status changes. (pp.14, 19, 21–23)

How do I start the unit in Manual mode vs. Automatic mode?
Manual: press the Manual button, then press Start — the controller pre-heats (if configured), cranks for a preset period, and once running lets the engine warm up before it can be loaded; it runs off-load until you manually transfer the load. Automatic: press the Auto button — the set waits for a remote start signal, then pre-heats, cranks, and (if configured) transfers load automatically once running. In both modes, pressing Stop after investigating any active alarm brings the unit to a complete stop. (pp.18, 25)

All below are Deep Sea controller alarms exactly as defined in the manual (W = Warning, S = Shutdown, W/S = either depending on severity):

Fail to Start (S) — the engine did not fire after the preset number of start attempts.

Fail to Stop (W) — the engine is still running after being instructed to stop.

High Coolant Temperature (S) / Sensor is Open — coolant temperature exceeded the shutdown threshold, or the temperature sensor circuit is open, after the safety-on timer expired.

Low Oil Pressure (S) / Sensor is Open — oil pressure fell below the trip setting (or the sensor circuit is open) after the safety-on timer expired.

Low / High Fuel Level (W/S) — fuel level is below or above the configured threshold.

MPU Signal Lost / Open — the speed signal from the magnetic pickup unit is lost or disconnected.

High / Low Battery Voltage (W/S) — DC supply has risen above or fallen below the preset level.

CAN ECU Alarm / CAN Wiring Open — the engine’s ECU has reported a shutdown condition to the controller, with the specific fault code also shown on the display (ECU DTC Alarms page).

Over-Speed / Under-Speed (W/S) — engine speed exceeded or fell below the preset trip level.

Over / Under Voltage, Over / Under Frequency, Overload kW, Delayed Overcurrent (W/S) — generator output has moved outside the preset electrical thresholds.

Emergency Stop (S) — the emergency stop button has been pressed; this is a failsafe input and immediately stops the set until the button is released and the fault cleared.

(Full table with icons: pp.16–17)

Where do I look to diagnose why a shutdown happened?
The Alarms page (jumped to automatically when an alarm is active) shows the specific fault and its severity (Warning/Shutdown); the Event Log keeps a dated history of past alarms and status changes; and on CAN-connected engines, the ECU DTC Alarms page shows the exact fault code (SPN/FMI) reported by the engine itself. (pp.22–23)

What’s the recommended daily check before each startup?
Check coolant level, drain water from the pre-filter, check engine lubricating oil level, clean the air filter element, check for and correct any leaks or damage, check the intercooler if fitted, and do a general visual inspection. (p.28)

What maintenance is due every 250 hours vs. every 500 hours?
Every 250 hours: check coolant level, drain the pre-filter, renew lubricating oil, change the oil filter, change the fuel filter. Every 500 hours: change the air filter, check coolant concentration, check drive belt tension/condition, inspect/adjust/renew the alternator and fan belts, inspect/renew coolant hoses and clips, inspect and clean the radiator/charge-cooler exterior, and check battery status. (p.28)

How often should I actually run/load-test a generator that’s mainly kept as standby?
Every month: run the set under at least 50% load for 1–2 hours. Every six months: electrically simulate faults to check all control-system safety devices, clean battery cap vents, tighten all exhaust and electrical connections, perform other engine maintenance per the engine manual, and start the engine to confirm all gauges read correctly. (p.27)

How do I check a battery’s state of charge?
For wet lead-acid batteries, use a hydrometer to measure specific gravity: 1.28 = 100% charged, 1.25 = 75%, 1.22 = 50%, 1.19 = 25%, 1.13 or below = discharged. Sealed batteries have a built-in hydrometer indicator instead: green = fully charged, black = fully discharged, white = needs replacement (though this only reflects one of the battery’s six cells, so treat it as a rough indicator). (p.31)

What lubricating oil and coolant should be used?
Oil: API CI-4/CH-4 or ACEA E5 for 9–20 kVA (Kubota) units; API-CI4 for 30–2000 kVA (John Deere/Cummins) units — viscosity grade selected by ambient temperature (e.g. SAE 15W40 for 14°F to 122°F, SAE 0W20 for -40°F to 50°F). Coolant: 50% distilled water / 50% antifreeze, mixed before adding to the engine; pre-mixed coolant must comply with ASTM D3306 (light-duty/liner-less engines) or ASTM D6210 (heavy-duty/wet-liner engines) — anything else needs sign-off from Ghaddar’s application team first. (p.32)

What does the standard warranty cover, and for how long?
One year or 1,000 hours from delivery date, whichever comes first. It covers replacement or repair of any part that proves factory-defective, including labor and transportation, provided genuine Ghaddar-specified filters/oil/parts were used.

What voids the warranty?
Damage from accidents or force majeure; normal wear-and-tear items (oil, filters, etc.); damage from negligence, lack of supervision/maintenance, or faulty usage; and any tampering by non-factory-authorized technicians or alteration/removal of the serial number. Normal service costs aren’t covered under warranty either way.

What information is needed to file a warranty claim?
Generating set serial number, running hours, date placed in service, and date/description of the failure — sent to [email protected]. (p.33)